A Lafite From China? This $300 Wine Is the Real Thing


But when requested if he could be ingesting the Long Dai wine, Huang Chuanjun, 70, an everyday beer drinker, shook his head.

“It’s more expensive than gold!” mentioned Mr. Huang, who was carrying a jug of soy sauce. “I wouldn’t even spend 100 renminbi on it. I can’t tell the difference anyway.”

The 2017 wine is the fruits of a challenge that started 10 years in the past, when the Lafite model was at the peak of its recognition in China. “Lafite” has been utilized in the names of Chinese house complexes and even barbecue eating places, mentioned Jim Boyce, founding father of Grape Wall of China, an English-language weblog about Chinese wine.

“It’s attached to the idea of the quality of a lifestyle,” Mr. Boyce mentioned.

But a variety of high-end Chinese wines have emerged in the final decade, together with Legacy Peak in Ningxia and Ao Yun, comprised of grapes grown in the Tibetan foothills and owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxurious group.

“The timing feels weird to me,” Mr. Boyce mentioned of the Long Dai launch. “It feels like part of a trend that’s already had its moment.”

For Lafite, although, the property in Shandong additionally gives a foothold into China’s rising marketplace for dear wines. It encompasses a customer middle and a so-called classroom for wine training, a primary for a Lafite property and a approach to promote gross sales of the firm’s different wines and overcome competitors from Chinese rivals.

References to the Rothschild household, which has owned Lafite for greater than 150 years, seem all through. A video of Ms. Rothschild in dialog along with her father, Baron Éric de Rothschild, performs in the customer middle. Paintings by her mom, the artist Maria-Beatrice Caracciolo Di Forino, and copies of oil portraits of 19th-century Rothschilds adorn the partitions of the buildings.



Source link Nytimes.com

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