36 Hours in Steamboat Springs
About 70 miles north of the I-70 hall that feeds Colorado’s busiest ski areas, Steamboat Springs appears faraway from the same old luxurious designer retailers and rampant condominium growth so usually seen in ski cities nowadays. Local craftsmen, artists, brewers and restaurant homeowners lend indie flare to the city’s major road, lined principally with early-20th-century buildings. Supplementing Steamboat’s “champagne powder” and Western enchantment, enhancements at Steamboat Ski Resort by its proprietor, Alterra Mountain Company — which additionally owns Deer Valley in Utah, and Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows in California in its 14-resort portfolio — embody a brand new gondola that shortens the experience from 12 to lower than 10 minutes and boosts capability 38 % to three,600 individuals an hour. Given Steamboat’s in-town diversions, scorching springs and number of winter sports activities (together with snowshoeing and biking), many guests come with out Alpine ambitions. The city makes it simple even for these with out a automotive — free buses flow into practically each 10 minutes in winter between downtown and the ski resort, supplemented by ride-sharing providers.
Friday
1) three p.m. Walking in a winter wonderland
To regulate to the local weather and altitude, take in the beautiful environment with a snowshoe hike on the paths round Fish Creek Falls about 4 miles east of city. Rent a pair of snowshoes from downtown’s Straightline Sports ($10) and head out to look at the ice climbers on the frozen falls earlier than ascending the steep trails shared by native canine walkers and path runners. If you’re in the temper for snowboarding, wait till darkness falls. Visitors touchdown early at Yampa Valley Regional Airport can night-ski without cost at Steamboat Ski Resort by exhibiting their airline boarding go on the ticket window.
2) four:30 p.m. Indie procuring
Steamboat provides a refreshing break from the parade of luxurious and out of doors manufacturers that fill most American ski cities. Here, it’s attainable to buy native for every thing from work to down parkas. Look for art work at Pine Moon Fine Art where many of the artists can also be found working in the gallery. Both The North Face and Marmot have shops on the main drag, Lincoln Avenue, but so does Bap, the local brand of fleece and outdoor apparel. (Many shops also carry socks by SmartWool, a popular outdoor company founded here.) For gifts and accessories, visit Ohana, which designs its own clever T-shirts and carries locally made jewelry, leather bags, knit hats and kitchen goods made with wood from trees killed by invasive beetles.
5) 9 a.m. Cowboy up
Steamboat is surrounded by rolling ranch land and cowboys still have a presence in town, especially at F.M. Light & Sons, the outfitter that has been dealing boots and Stetson hats since 1905. Winter horseback riding at Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch, about a 30-minute drive north of town, offers an introduction to ranch life and a glorious ride in the snow-covered wilderness ($105, including round-trip shuttles from the ski area). The adventure features the cowboy and skier Ray Heid, a fourth-generation local who was an alternate on the 1960 Olympic ski-jumping team. At 82, he still leads two-hour rides through Aspen forests and between fields frosted in fondant coats of deep snow, with occasional sightings of elk, coyote and fox.
6) 12:30 p.m. Peak sandwich
If you think every turkey sandwich is built alike, reconsider your theory at the Paramount, a cozy spot next to the Right-O-Way run on the north side of the ski base. Because the kitchen prides itself on cooking from scratch, that turkey is actually roasted in-house and stacked on thick grilled bread with avocado, peppers, Swiss cheese and spicy mayo ($12). Two-fisted sandwiches are served indoors or out at picnic tables in view of the lifts. Open daytime only, this is a great breakfast option, too, for breakfast sandwiches made with eggs and bacon ($9) or filling chilaquiles ($11).
7) 1:30 p.m. Bike Town USA
8) 3 p.m. Soak session
Native Americans came to the Yampa Valley for its mineral springs long before the early 19th-century French trappers who, according to legend, mistook the gurgling water for a chugging ship and named the area Steamboat Springs. The most natural setting for a spa, Strawberry Park Hot Springs, about a 40-minute drive from downtown, dams up several naturally fed pools, whose temperatures range from about 101 to 105 degrees (admission from $15). For chills, bathers jump into the icy river adjoining the pools or roll in snowbanks. Be aware that the springs are adult-only and clothing optional after dark. Since the mountainous road requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, take a shuttle with Sweet Pea Tours ($45, including transportation and springs admission). If you’re a lap-swimmer or traveling with children, hit the newly expanded Old Town Hot Springs, which has 25-yard lanes and, in a separate pool, water slides, all heated by the downtown Heart Spring (admission $18).
9) 6 p.m. Popcorn and hops
Ski town restaurants tend to camp out at the culinary poles anchored by affordable hamburgers and expensive steaks. Mountain Tap Brewery resides somewhere mid-spectrum with wood-fired cooking and house-brewed beer. The co-owner and brewmaster Rick Tucciarone spent a dozen years at Kona Brewing Company in Hawaii before opening Mountain Tap in 2016. He makes a range of styles, including the light Locals’ Lager and piney, dry-hopped Picking Hops (most pints are $6). Pair a pint with a mini kettle of the rich and spicy popcorn made with chili oil and Grana Padano cheese ($3), then move on to a margherita pizza with San Marzano tomatoes ($13) or the roast Rocky Mountain trout ($23). Like your shuttle driver or Airbnb host? Buy them a beer here in advance via the “Beer it Forward” chalkboard.
10) 8 p.m. Party on
Steamboat is not a late-night town; in fact, if it’s snowing, locals and visitors alike often call it a night by 8 p.m. in order to get in the gondola line by 8 a.m. the next morning. For those who choose to continue the après-ski party après dinner, the Old Town Pub, lodged in a former 1905 hotel, usually offers live music on Saturdays (cover varies). For improv shows, stand-up comedy, films and plays, check the listings at the 1926-vintage Chief Theater downtown.
Sunday
11) 7:30 a.m. Eggs benefits
12) 9 a.m. Will ski for tacos
At 2,965 acres spread over six peaks, with runs nearly split between intermediate (42 percent) and advanced (44 percent), Steamboat Ski Resort is an explorer’s destination known for powder stashes in its glades (lift tickets from $115). Wherever you ski, by 11 a.m. take a break and make your way to the Taco Beast, a snowcat-cum-food-truck (check @TacoBeastSBT on Twitter for its location). The menu of four taco varieties includes elk chorizo and beef barbacoa ($5 each). Save room for esquites, roast corn mixed with sour cream,, queso fresco and spices ($5). Eat to the beats broadcast over speakers at the pop-up patio in the snow, furnished with picnic tables and camp chairs. The kitchen shuts down when the tacos sell out, usually around 1 p.m., when thirsty crowds ski down to T Bar at Steamboat, a self-described “dive bar” at the base of the mountain.
Lodgings
Across the street from the Old Town Hot Springs, next to a bus stop for the ski base and within walking distance of all the shops, restaurants and parks downtown, the Rabbit Ears Motel caters to the car-free as much as the budget-tight. Breakfast is included, which guests frequently supplement with groceries from the coop next door. Rooms from $119; rabbitearsmotel.com.
Those who prefer to stay at the ski base have a range of options, including the slope-front Steamboat Grand, home to a generous pool and two hot tubs (rooms from $97; steamboatgrand.com). There are also many rental condos here listed on Airbnb, including a one-bedroom condo near a gondola that delivers guests to the mountain base, three hot tubs, a pool and fire pits ($329; airbnb.com).
